Built some carbon fibre heat shields recently to just add a little bit of a heat soak barrier to the filter. The rear is lined with DEI gold tape and also edge sealed against the bonnet, however the main air feed will come via a carbon Evo NACA duct – which will hopefully get fitted in the coming weeks.
Discovered recently that one of the front springs had snapped, so seemed like a good opportunity to upgrade the suspension. The choice was narrowed to Bilstein B14 and Compbrake top mounts, or AST 5100 series.
Ended up going for the Bilstein option as I felt it better suited the dual purpose nature of the car. AST I think would have been a bit too track orientated and specifying them with softer road biased spring rates made the extra expense seem unnecessary.
I also wasn’t sure adjustable dampers were what i was after either, when doing track days I generally prefer to just turn up and maximise my driving time, rather than messing about with setup.
Whilst I had it all apart I took the opportunity to also replace both wishbones, anti-rotation links and have the radiator cross member powder coated.
First of the winter changes was installing a wideband, decided on the AEM X-Series as it is reportedly the fastest unit on the market and using the Bosch 4.9 LSU means it doesn’t need frequent fresh air calibration. I’ve never had a wideband before but this in theory should be fit and forget, which is something I usually try to achieve where possible. It also supports 5v output if I decide to route that to the Standalone ECU.
The only conundrum was where to install the gauge, as I already had my SPA gauge in the drivers vent? I decided to grab a TomTom unit and gut the screen from it, install a sheet of carbon and mount both gauges in that. The only issue with this approach was losing the clock/radio display, which meant either ditch the radio altogether, or find something aftermarket with a screen – whilst remaining suitably OEM looking. After much searching I found the Clarion FZ-102E, and it certainly looks pretty factory in my opinion 🙂
Back on the rollers the other day to check the mapping and ensure everything is ok now the first 1000 miles have been put on the engine.
Consistent results with last time and running fine with no signs of knock. I still however don’t have full confidence with the car yet, and I don’t think I will until the big cams and ITBs are on, so it’s time to speed the next step up 🙂
Can see the vacuum increase on the dyno plot below, so a bigger TB would probably give a little more power. However I think I’ll just jump straight to the ITB’s than mess around anymore on the stock inlet. It’ll be much better overall to take a nice clean cold air supply right from the front. Of course no concerns with cam profile when on ITB’s too 😉
Pretty sure I’ve decided on the ITB set, little peak of them below too!
Finally installed the Mocal catch tank, needed a couple of brackets fabricating and I’ve also used a Green breather filter. The Mocal lids are breathable but I don’t believe they breath well enough, I’ve heard of several blown seals when people have relied on just the lids.
So the catch tank is primarily needed (other than looking cool in gold against the LY paint 😉 ) for stopping any oil vapour from diluting the inlet charge, and thus potentially lowering the effective octane rating etc. This is especially important whilst I’m running the small cams with such a high static compression ratio, as my dynamic compression ratio is higher than ideal and this places you in a window where knock is easily reached.